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Surfing, extreme sports

Surfing, extreme sports (Picture 1)


Surfing is an extreme sport powered by waves. Surfers lie on their stomachs or sit on surfboards in the sea where there are suitable waves. When the suitable waves approach, the surfer adjusts the direction of the head and lays prone on the surfboard. Paddling in the direction of the waves, give the surfboard enough speed to keep the surfboard in front of the waves. When the surf pushes the surfboard to slide, the surfer stands up, stands back and forth with both legs naturally, bends both knees slightly, and uses the center of gravity of the body. , Shoulders and hind legs control the direction of the surfboard. Surfing can make people forget their worries and experience the thrill of fighting and galloping on the waves again and again. This is why there are many people in the world looking for the perfect surfing destination every day, just to complete a perfect chase with the waves.

Surfing started in Australia. Because Australia is surrounded by the sea and has a warm climate, more sunshine and less rain, which is conducive to the development of water sports, Australians especially like surfing. Long before the Europeans moved, the indigenous people here, when floating in the sea in a canoe, suddenly rushed to the top of the wave and slid into the valley with a leaf of a flat boat. This is the predecessor of surfing. There is another theory about the origin of surfing: surfing originated in the Hawaiian Islands, a world surfing destination in the late 1960s. In June 1970, a surfer computer technician in the United States designed and manufactured the world's first strip with a universal joint. The windsurfing was patented. After that, windsurfing became popular in the local area, and soon it spread to Europe, Australia and Southeast Asia, and became popular in Australia.

After the Second World War, the birth of the plastic industry produced lightweight plastic surfboards, which promoted the development of surfing. As a result, surfing was truly developed in many countries around the world. With the gradual popularity and improvement of surfing, its sports have developed in the direction of competition. Australia often holds surfing competitions. The first surfing world championship was held in Manly, Australia in 1962, and thereafter it was held every two years. The competition is mainly based on the number and quality of surfing completed by the surfer within the specified time. A 20-point system is used for scoring. For example, if you rush 3 waves within 30 minutes or rush 6 waves within 45 minutes, then according to the surfer’s take-off, Turning, sliding distance, and difficulty of choosing waves are scored.

Every surfer wants to go to Hawaii for at least one wave. Oahu is the main island of Hawaii and the most important surfing place. The shape of the island makes the island naturally form four surfing coasts. Due to the influence of the monsoon in the Hawaiian Islands, the waves blowing from the North Pacific in summer often make waves as high as 4 meters, and some waves can reach as high as 8 meters or more. Surfers can glide more than 800 meters. If people are interested, they can go to the beach in Hawaii. Every weekend is no exception. There are always some obese women on the beach, wearing all kinds of bikinis, checking the water temperature, checking the waves, smiling, and laughing happily when the waves roll over.

Surfing has created many unbelievable miracles and often surprises people. At the beginning of 1986, two French athletes, Peron and Pixiafan, set off from Senegal in Western Africa and crossed the Atlantic Ocean on a surfboard. They arrived in Central America on the French Dlop Island in late February, which lasted 24 days and 12 hours. Surfing is a very thrilling sport. Pedestrian surfboards appear in the stormy waves. Even those who are familiar with water and have superb skills will inevitably be in danger. Therefore, with the development of surfing, surfing life-saving activities are also constantly developing.

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